Can You Belize It

If you haven’t read the first part of this blog which began in the Belize location of Ambergris Caye (San Pedro), check it out at The Best Belize Travel Itinerary Part 1 – Ambergris Caye.

Often when I talk about Belize people are confused regarding its location, so it is important to clarify that Belize is situated in Central America as this will help you understand that it has not only island-like beaches, but mainland jungle as well.

For the second part of our journey/honeymoon we headed off into this latter environment and booked the sister lodge to Matachica: Gaia Riverlodge. Situated in San Ignacio, it’s rated as one of the Top Small Luxury Hotels of the World- a little wonderland located inside of the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve.

Yes you read that correctly: a pine forest inside of the jungle. Crazy, right? If you are wanting to repeat our adventure and book here too, I am a huge fan of Expedia.com. I always check Expedia to see if I can get a better deal than at the hotel’s own website, and I usually come out on top with it.

Ok back to the story: Eventually we found ourselves on the last day of the “beachy” part of our honeymoon in Ambergris Caye, and it was time to travel to the Gaia Riverlodge located in mainland Belize. The San Pedro airport we had to use is a unique gem in and of itself: just a tiny dirt runway, a few little puddle-jumper planes that fit a max of nine people, and a tiki-hut bar right next to the airfield. 

It all added up to create quite the adventurous atmosphere which felt like we were in a spy film playing agents on the run. So, we had to jump back on the little plane with Tropic Air and take a short flight to the Maya Flats Airport near San Ignacio where the REAL Indiana Jones adventure would begin.

Day 1 – Flying into San Ignacio

As we landed at the San Ignacio airport a private driver from our lodge was waiting to take us to our Jungle abode inside of a Pine Forest which we did not realize would be the case until we were driving through it. The Mountain Pine Ridge Forest contains sporadic jungle resorts spread out along the landscape and trust me when I say that when you’re there, you are very secluded.

Yes, your cell phone does work but you might want to put it away for this once in a lifetime experience. As we arrived to the Gaia Riverlodge we were met with staff ready to show us where we would be staying for the next four nights.

Our room was in this amazing bungalow overlooking the jungle and once we finished putting away our stuff we headed to the main lodge- ready to order our first jungle cocktail. I ordered the Watermelon martini… perfection!

At the Lodge

As we sipped our cocktails made by our very own bartender (because no one else was in the lodge), I imagined we were going to go on an adventure the next day to discover a mythical treasure at a Mayan temple hidden deep in the jungle. The lodge manager came over with a private tour adventure book that we could choose for each day. 

Once we selected our tours for each of our full days at the lodge, we were told that we could take an outdoor "elevator" down to an amazing waterfall right there on the resort grounds, order a picnic basket with wine, and relax while the sounds of nature calmed our minds. 

We were in heaven. The "elevator" was a bit like a mini cable-car, and it whisked us slowly down the mountainside to the river below the lodge where we found a slice of paradise exactly as described. Multiple waterfalls cascade down right in front of an area you can lay and relax at in the center of the river with water flowing by on all sides. The picnic was great, and the atmosphere just so relaxing.

Day 2 – Horseback Riding through the Jungle

After waking up on day two, we strolled to the main lodge overlooking the waterfall for breakfast. All of the meals at Gaia Riverlodge were freshly made on-site, absolutely fantastic, and they now have an organic garden that they also incorporate into their meals. Our tour guide picked us up shortly after we finished savoring the breakfast, and off we went to the home of the Mayan farmer who would be the horseback riding guide for our epic adventure.

I might have a very overactive imagination: I had dreamed up this magical moment where we would be riding through the jungle, and there would be monkeys all around us causing a ruckus, but that is not what happened. There was barely any sound as we rode through the jungle for hours, punctuated by the guide pulling out a machete to hack clear the path, and times when he would share his knowledge of flora, fauna, and sites of historical significance.

Eventually we came upon this old Mayan cave leading underground, nearly invisibly lurking under some jungle foliage. Our guide asked us if we wanted to go down inside and see some old skeletons and Mayan jars.

“Uhhh…. No, thank you” was my reply. There was no way on God’s green earth that I would go under a bunch of jungle foliage where who knows what creatures were lurking and where no one could find me if I slipped somewhere deep into this cave.

My brain began to go into fear mode, but my husband, who sometimes seems so fearless, said he wanted to go. So…. The guide took him into the cave and left me with his machete (yes, that is right, he handed me a weapon “just in case”) and had me get off the horse. Now there was only me and the three horses, and suddenly the jungle seemed to become so loud that fear swept over me.

I began to swing my machete 360 degrees just in case I needed to use it; in case some dangerous animal decided to approach me. Earlier we were told how tarantulas liked to hide in the leaves on the ground, leaves I was now standing ankle-deep in… 

The men-folk were gone down in the belly of the Earth for twenty minutes or so, but it sure felt like an hour. We all got back on our horses and returned to the lodge for another watermelon martini (I’m telling you, they were good).

Day 3 – Visit to Ancient Mayan Ruins in Caracol

What is a trip to the Belizean jungle without seeing some ancient Mayan ruins? After enjoying another delicious breakfast at the Gaia Riverlodge, we were picked up by a different tour guide from the one we had the day prior; it was great to meet different Belizeans who knew the area very well and were so excited to share their ancient heritage.

These ruins, in particular, were only recently found in 1938 by a logger. The ruins were covered by the jungle and are now under the Belize Institute of Archeology. Caracol means snail in Spanish, but its actual Mayan name is Oxhuitza, or the “Place of Three Hills”.

It is estimated that at least one hundred and forty thousand Mayans lived in the Caracol area at one time, which is believed to be the largest archeological zone in Belize. The site dates back to around 1000 – 800 B.C., much earlier than what was initially believed by Belizean archeologists. (1)

The ruins are home to howler monkeys; they surround the ruins in the trees but make the most frightening noise I have ever heard: they sound much more like lions than little monkeys! A testament to this is that though they are so tiny; their frightening voices keep predators away. They were also throwing down the fruits from the trees; and I am not sure if they thought it was entertaining, but it was funny to us at least! Check out their scary voice boxes here: Howler Monkeys

After our tour, we stopped by a local BBQ restaurant in the jungle and had authentic pibil. If you have never had pibil, you are missing out! It is a Yucatan-style BBQ cooked for hours in banana leaves and eaten over rice- absolutely delicious. Afterwards we returned to our lodge for another watermelon martini to discuss our day’s adventure with the Gaia Lodge staff.

Day 4 – Canoeing into a Cave

Our last adventure before our jungle visit ended was to canoe down the Macal River and into a dark cave with our guide. Leading up to this point, it really did feel like each day we were living the Indiana Jones dream and upping the ante every morning- this was a real-life adventure. Sticking to the script of increasing the adventure-meter, this last day took the cake. This was an adventure like no other! 

As we made our way into the cave, it was pitch black. No fancy lights are set up by anyone; it was just us, our little canoe, and our trusty flashlight as we floated deeper into the blackness. A few times, the ceiling came so low that we had to duck or even LAY DOWN in the canoe to pass by, and that is when I realized there was no way I could actually be Indiana Jones’s sidekick. I wouldn’t say I am claustrophobic, but my mind apparently begins to go crazy when caves get really low like that and you are sliding between a cave ceiling and inky-black waters.

Gliding along, we passed by a ledge higher up on the wall as the ceiling raised up for a short time. Our guide maneuvered his flashlight to show ancient clay pots, wall drawings, and even skeletons that had remained completely un-disturbed for generations: Mayan people entombed within the watery cave.

We continued deeper and the ceiling lowered once again, and our guide explained that nothing except for bats lived in the caves, until we noticed something white on the cave wall. My husband shouted, “What is that?” Our guide shined the light on it, and we beheld a giant white cave spider. It was white as a sheet of paper, with extremely long, thin legs. 

Remember when I told you we were a bit close to the cave ceiling? Well, we were also a little too close to this giant white spider on the cave wall. Our guide, who grew up in the area, said he had never seen it before and truthfully didn’t know what it was. I feared that this giant white spider was about to jump on us, and then we would all be dumped out of the canoe deep in this cave (because I would rather have leapt into a bottomless stygian abyss filled with ancient Mayan skeletons than share a canoe with it).

Giant white spiders? No thanks. With a noble discovery of a new species under our belt we bravely turned our tail and fled from the cave. Really, it was the height of our adventure and something we will talk about for the rest of our lives.

Since it was our last night, the Gaia Lodge staff suggested visiting Francis Ford Coppola’s (The famous director of the “Godfather” trilogy) Blancaneaux Lodge jungle resort for dinner. This resort is absolutely stunning, and they were one of the first lodges at the time to have their own organic garden, incorporating it into their restaurant menu. It is one of the most romantic places I have been to, and I recommend staying here if you plan to visit Belize.

And Now For your History DEEP DIVE!

Belize once flourished with the Mayan people, but the Mayan population began to decline throughout the region even before the arrival of the Spanish and Europeans in the 16th Century. The Spanish tried to convert the remaining Mayans to Christianity but were unsuccessful. (2) Today, the remaining Mayan culture is still very much alive in the local communities. The Mayan people are proud of their heritage; some even still speak Mayan.

As we were visiting the town of San Ignacio we stumbled upon a farmers market run by a large group of Mennonites. They were selling meat, organic fruits and vegetables, and dairy products in the middle of the jungle in Belize. I was intrigued; the original Mennonites who arrived in Belize in 1958 were of Dutch, Russian, and Prussian descent.

They had migrated from Mexico because the Mexican government wanted the Mennonite people to be part of the social security program. The Mennonite community is very secluded and has often been exempted from military service. Still, unfortunately for them, their migration was due to changing governments requiring military service and being registered in their systems. (3)

In 1957, the Mennonite Community negotiated with the British Honduras (Now known as Belize) Government to bring agriculture to the local communities in exchange for religious freedom and military service exemption. British Honduras heavily relied upon imports for agriculture, which was a win-win negotiation for both parties.

Their arrival in 1958 was one of seeking freedom from the constraints of Governments that they felt did not protect their religious freedoms. Fast forward all these years, and they have become Belize’s leading producers by 85% for the country in milk, cheese, and other dairy products. In 1966, Pennsylvania and Arkansas Mennonites also sought to come to Belize due to the pressures of the Vietnam War. (4)

The Mennonites are given protection by the Belizean government, and they, in return, have a booming agricultural community that provides meats, fruits, vegetables, and dairy to the local communities.

Advice I wish I had known on my trip…

I could see myself retiring in this beautiful country. What’s not to love? I felt safe both in Ambergris Caye and throughout our travels through the mainland. I would highly recommend when planning a vacation like this traveling to the Jungle first and then finish in Ambergris Caye, because what we ended up doing is extending our trip by a few more days to fly back to Ambergris Caye.

So start with the jungle, and end with the beach. Gaia Riverlodge requires children to be over ten years old, but another really great recommendation is Cha Cha Creek, which is family friendly and has tons of great reviews as well. Check out Expedia.com for the best rates. One thing I will guarantee is that if you follow my advice you will absolutely have one of the most adventure-filled vacations yet.

Recommended Tours and Resorts

• Viator.com
• Expedia.com
• Gaia Riverlodge
• Cha Cha Creek
• Blancaneaux Lodge

Sources

(1). https://www.themayanruinswebsite.com/caracol.html

(2). https://www.britannica.com/place/Belize/The-arts

(3). https://www.belizehub.com/belize-mennonites/

(4). https://ideaexchange.uakron.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1099&context=amishstudies